5 Nutrients for Skin Barrier Function
An impaired skin barrier is a driving factor that can lead to both the development and aggravation of acne, skin infections and inflammatory skin conditions; this is why it’s so important restoring the skin barrier function forms the basis of all topical and internal skin treatments.
The skin barrier is our skin’s first line of defence. It begins with the stratum corneum, the top layer of the skin which is comprised of skin cells known as corneocytes & other proteins, which provides a physical barrier from invading pathogens that could cause skin infections. For this, we need a tightly thatched roof of corneocytes, created from well hydrated rather than dry and crunchy cells.
This layer also contains enzymes that allow the skin cells to slough off and naturally self-exfoliate, as well as communicate to the dermis what the epidermis needs..for example, more or less oil.
The acid mantle is also part of the skin barrier and is found a layer deeper than the stratum corneum, in the stratum lucidum. It is comprised of a layer of water with a layer of oil on top (this layer of oil keeping hydration IN the skin to avoid transepidermal water loss, or TEWL). To build a lovely acid mantle we need to create healthy cell membranes, which break down and create these layers of oil and water.
But how do you know if your skin barrier is impaired?
If you have a skin condition such as acne, rosacea, perioral dermatitis or eczema - you can almost guarantee it.
Recent/excessive history of sun exposure/sunburn
Symptoms of redness, dry, itchy, flakey, burning/stinging skin (in particular if water/topical applications are applied)
Sensitive skin
Frequent infections in the skin such as staph
History of roaccutane and/or topical steroid usage
Excessive history of harsh skincare or treatments (often including peels and microdermabrasion)
As a skin-focussed naturopath I often find that the skin barrier is in a state of disrepair due to the many tried and failed interventions used to treat acne, rosacea and perioral dermatitis (alongside plenty of nutritional deficiencies). The golden nugget to restoring your skin barrier is working collaboratively with a skilled corneotherapist/dermal clinician AND a naturopath.
1. Iron
Not only is iron essential for collagen synthesis (via activation of the amino acids lysine and proline which build collagen) which supports skin integrity and elasticity, but it is also essential for mitochondrial function which provides skin cells with energy to perform all their metabolic processes (including cell to cell communication, stem cell differentiation and responding to microbial infection). Iron is also paramount in wound healing via delivering oxygen to the wound site to help physically repair the skin barrier.
2) Calcium
Calcium regulates many skin functions including skin cell differentiation (the calcium ‘gradient’ changes as you move up through the skin layers which in turn promotes the change or ‘differentiation’ of keratinocytes as they move up to the stratum
corneum), skin barrier formation and skin permeability. Calcium release is involved in the synthesis of antimicrobial peptides in the skin which enhances skin barrier function and skin immunity.
3) Zinc
Zinc supports SCCE function, which is the enzyme in the stratum corneum that allows the skin cells to naturally slough off in a process called desquamation, or self- exfoliation. Zinc also plays a large role in wound healing in the skin including cell membrane repair, and skin remodelling. Zinc also possesses antibacterial properties for skin immunity and has a host of actions in reproductive health beneficial for hormone-driven acne in particular.
4) Vitamin A
Vitamin A supports skin cell desquamation (self-exfoliation) and skin cell turnover so that old cells don’t build up, block hair follicles in the skin and create an anaerobic environment that allows for acne-causing bacteria to multiply. Vitamin A is also a collagen precursor so helps to maintain skin integrity, and ‘plumpness ‘of the dermis which houses blood vessels that supply the upper skin layers with nutrients.
5) Essential Fatty Acids
EFAs are the building blocks for a healthy, solid acid mantle- you’ll never see a skin- focussed naturopath not giving a high-quality fish oil supplement when there is an inflammatory skin condition present! A combination of GLA, EPA and DHA is ideal for optimising skin barrier function, GLA in particular when we are seeing transepidermal water loss (TEWL) in the skin which creates dryness and dehydration. EFAs also help the skin to maintain a slightly acidic pH of 4.5-6.5 which helps to provide physical protection from infection and maintain the skin’s microbiome so that this surface environment favours more beneficial bacteria living on it. GLA is derived predominantly from plant seed oils such as borage oil and evening primrose oil, whereas EPA and DHA are found in their greatest amounts in cold-water, oily fish such as sardines, herring & mackerel, as well as in flaxseed, and algae oil.
By Phoebe Ackland, (BHSc Naturopath)
Phoebe is a skin and reproductive hormone specialising Naturopath at Orenda Women’s Health, supporting clients struggling with acne, peri-oral dermatitis, PCOS and other cycle-related conditions.